Tuesday, February 12, 2013

GRANADA, Seville and Cordoba

Oh, how I loved Granada.  It was just so. incredibly. beautiful.  La Alhambra!!! I now understand what all the fuss is about!! The white buildings and the hills, views of the Sierra Nevadas....the Albayzin (old town)....just so romantic.  Unlike any place I've ever seen before.   To me, it's a place you can't miss if you are traveling to Spain.  I want to go back, and see the rest of these lovely "white hill towns".  We had a blast watching the Superbowl at midnight in a little Irish pub filled with every American in the city....but we had one too many beers each, which made for a less than pleasant trip to Seville the next day....haha! Lesson learned.  Luckily, I am completely OFF of my beer kick still as I write this more than a week later.  Every street we turned down was magical (make sure to walk Carrera del Darro).  Touches of the Middle-East make it so exotic, and the mixture of architecture takes your breath away!  One of the most memorable parts of our stay here was venturing to the Albayzin and the endless stairs that you can see from practically every view of the city, which lead up a hill and to a very old church.  At first I thought it was abandoned, but I'm pretty sure it's still in use by the poorer families who live in badass caves all along the cave.  Seriously, this place was magical!  We decided to go for it and hike up the zillion stairs, and we were greatly rewarded by not just the view, but the music that came from a group of locals who perched on the cliffside with their drums and beautiful chants which sounded African. Love.
Along the stairs we braved 
Views of the Sierra Nevadas
Generalife at La Alhambra
Do you see the TINY PUPPY??? You better believe I squeezed him!

View from Mirador de San Nicolas- a must see!


at La Alhambra

La Alhambra 

Our hike



The cliffside music :)



Narrow white streets!
Unfortunately we went to Seville at the wrong time.  What do I mean? Garbage collector strike. Which means....stinky piles of trash EVERYWHERE. You cannot escape the smell. Well you can, which is why went to Cordoba.  And in the center of the Parque de Maria Luisa, you feel like you can take a deep breath....but for us, unfortunately, Seville was a lot of time spent cooped up in our little apartment, planning the rest of our trip. We did find a tasty restaurant which was ridiculously cheap (Taberna Colonia), with lots of fresh and tasty vegetarian options. Lots of meat options also, FYI :)

Cordoba is another beautiful little town with lots of Middle-Eastern influence. We enjoyed our time here, but I personally liked Toledo better.  If you do decide to go though, you won't regret it! And you can find some tasty food (and a dessert I just could NOT pass up, with no regrets afterwards, homemade fig cheesecake) at La Boca.


Crazy wood and granite structure in Seville

Plaza Espana 
Beautiful details

Side trips: Montserrat and Toledo

There are so many great places to see in Spain, I know we will be back here to see more. We were able to squeeze some side trips, starting with Montserrat near Barcelona. I highly recommend this trip to hiking enthusiasts, or just anyone who loves nature.  These bizarre mountains are a really important religious site in Catalonia and a monk retreat full of history.

I completely recommend that if you go, you pack yourself a good lunch, as the food there is terrible and expensive! Plus, the incredible views would allow for a wonderful picnic site!












And then there is Toledo, which we visited from Madrid.  You know the saying, "Holy Toledo!"? Well that's because of the religious significance of this place, as it represents a place of coexistence of Christian, Muslim and Jewish culture! The architecture is breathtaking.  Here you'll find your classic narrow streets, cobblestone streets.....we found a place overlooking the river and canyon and actually took a nap in the sunshine. It was a priceless moment!













Sunday, February 10, 2013

Madrid.


We had mixed advice on Madrid- you MUST go- skip it for sure....but I think one of my friends put it best when he said, it's a great city but you can't really relax.  As far as a metropolis city goes, it's one of the better ones we've been to in that it was still clean and pretty scenic.  I think if we were more into museums, we would've enjoyed ourselves that much more, but we have a short attention span when it comes to most museums we encounter.  Overall, I am glad we went, but I don't feel the need to go back.

I think we agreed on our favorite part of town being near Paseo del Prado and the Parque del Retiro.   The street was tree lined and scenic with many gorgeous buildings.  Even better was the beautiful big park where you can kind of escape from the city.  We went running here and also just strolled around...stumbled across a little pond where we saw a black swan couple! They were SO beautiful and enchanting.  The momma was nesting and the dad was swimming around, gathering nesting material.  It was adorable.   And at one end of the Paseo del Prado is the museum, Caixa Forum, which we didn’t go into, but we thought the vertical garden outside was pretty cool!

The highlight was absolutely going to the legendary Estadio Santiago Bernabau to watch one of the sport’s most talked about games: Copa del Rey- Barcelona vs. Madrid.  The energy was hard to explain.   Before we even got in, the streets were packed with supporters from both sides, happily chanting songs and waiting for the teams to arrive in their team bus.  We wanted to go into the official team store to buy my brother, a long-time die-hard Real Madrid fan, some gear, but there was absolutely no way of getting through. So when we made our way into the stadium I think Matt’s heart broke a little when they informed us that there is no alcohol allowed in the stadium!  He actually spent money on non-alcoholic beer, “just for the taste, it’s a sports game after all”.  We were shocked to find how great our seats were, and further amused to find that everyone around us were season ticket holders who knew each other.  A series of old Spanish guys, which I was totally hoping for.   These guys were SO SERIOUS, shouting out profanities that I can only imagine what they meant, waving their hands in the air, holding their heads in their hands…too good.  The man next to Matthew was more stoic. He didn’t say much, was quite calm. However, by the time Barcelona had one goal on Madrid and less and less time was left in the game…Madrid took another shot at the goal and it didn’t go in.  The man turned to look Matt square in the eyes and just stared at him for a moment with a look of pure agony and panic. No words necessary. Priceless.

From Madrid we took a day trip to Toledo, which I’ll write about later.  Aside from the freaking amazing oranges, I’d say the food in Barcelona made it really hard for Madrid to compete with.  We didn’t have any meals that left us wanting more. However Malatesta was a great find for big portions and yummy food at good prices.



Yeaaaaaah buddy!
Great loft style apartment made it easy to choose meals at home
Vertical garden at Caixa Forum
Along Paseo del Prado


Black swan dad!
Parque del Retiro
Domestic responsibilities

Madrid's Royal Palace
Official store
Streets pre-game 
WOAH our seats ROCK!