Thursday, December 27, 2012

Nuremberg and Heidelberg

We picked up a rental car for the next 2.5 weeks of our trip, majority of which will be spent with Laura and Nich who are meeting us in Berlin....yay!!  Matt was oh-so-excited to drive a fancy manual shift car on Germany's spotless and beautiful autobahn (freeway).  The roads are another place where the orderliness of the German people is so evident!  What is CRAZY to me and very entertaining to Matt is the lack of a speed limit...there are sections where they will have like a 75 MPH speed limit, but much of the time, you get to go as fast as your heart desires.  All of the BMWs, Audis and Mercedes' truly FLY past you, and when you're going 80 MPH, you can only imagine how fast they are going....We stopped in the fancy town of Ingolstadt for a tasty sandwich and coffee.
View from the autobahn!
YES we are like little kids who laugh at this every time we see it!
Well, I think we sort of missed the boat on Nuremberg.  We arrived on Christmas Eve, and that is apparently the day that one of the most famous Christmas markets in Germany, which is in Nuremberg, closes. And then so does everything through December 26....haha!  We were also misled by the reviews and pictures of our apartment, because as we pulled up to the neighborhood, we were like...hmmm, this is....not...nice. And the sentiment remained as we walked into our apartment. Ooops!!  No worries, we had done some groceries prior to leaving Munich and were well stocked on food, the beautiful old town was a short walk away, and we got an invite to visit friends in Heidelberg!! We figured with any downtime, we can do some more trip planning and research.  Problem solved. 

So on Christmas Eve, we decided to finally fulfill our longtime dream lazy day and have a movie marathon, which continued on Christmas. We watched National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation, Home Alone and Love Actually, and got caught up on Breaking Bad (haha). The latter didn't fit the theme but oh well.  Our Christmas dinner consisted of our homemade salad and vegetable and bean soup, with German cookies and wine!  We also exchanged ornaments that we picked out for each other at a Christmas market in Munich.  To top it off, we Skyped with family, and it was so nice to see everyone's faces. We ventured out to walk around the famous Old town of Nuremberg. Nothing was open, but the buildings were all so beautiful.  I will admit I was a bit turned off by how commercialized the area is, despite the loads of history it contains (famous Nuremberg trials, for example).  It was a low-key and lovely day.  


View of street in old town Nuremberg
Church in Nuremberg
Part 1 of our Christmas dinner! 
To be honest, the highlight of these few days was actually venturing OUT of Nuremberg.  There's something so special about meeting up with friends in a foreign country, and meeting up with people you hardly know is so much less daunting than it would be at home. For example,  we met with a friend of a friend in Mannheim for a lovely lunch....never met him before in person but chatted online a bit and heard lots of wonderful things from our mutual friend, so why not?!  This was just outside of Heidelberg, a BEAUTIFUL city, where we stayed with a wonderful family and met more friends!  All of our new German friends were previous exchange students of our friends back home.  So cool!  They let us stay at their amazing home cooked us such a delicious meal.  We rode our bikes into town to explore it's beauty, and rode back in a crazy downpour of rain after having a traditional German meal at Palmbraue Gasse.  What a wonderful experience!! And tomorrow, we are off to Berlin, where we will meet my besties!

View of Heidelberg Castle from city
Inside of an old church in Heidelberg
View of Heidelberg from castle


Our friends in Heidelberg!!!


Sunday, December 23, 2012

Auf Wiedersehen München! (Goodbye, Munich! )

Some more observations about this city: so many beautiful/elegant people; impressive engineering and energy efficiency; super clean and environmentally conscious; delicious food- I had no problem finding vegetarian dishes loaded with organic everything to make it better; great cheese; month-long Christmas celebrations that locals of all ages attend and it's still not commercialized; every neighborhood feels safe; super duper friendly people; drinking beer is always okay. HAHA....yet everyone is still so orderly!

The last few days have been spent sleeping in way too late and then realizing we don't care at all. Of course we are doing workouts in the mornings now that we know how terrible a month without it feels!  While we've done a few tourist things, for the most part we have been exploring this beautiful city and soaking it all in.  We also ran into someone I grew up with in Rocklin at the train station, which was so random and such a reminder that it really is a small world!

Our friend recommended the beer at Andecher am Dom, so we checked it out. In addition to delicious Helles beer, we enjoyed a great dinner and the people we sat near were so nice that we actually laugh about it....like, "really?".... You sit at a community table and the old German couple next to us flagged down the waitress to get us an English menu and the young German couple next to us told us to enjoy our meal when our food arrived.  Then to top it off at the end of the meal, all of a sudden a Golden Retriever pops up by the old couple and we realize he'd been waiting patiently under the table for them to eat. So of course we pet the dog and they tell us about how much they love him.  On our way out, everyone wished us a Merry Christmas....I love these people!

Here's how we've spent the last few days:

SPOTTED and PURCHASED: the most perfect Christmas tree there ever was!
Matt was probably the happiest person that has ever explored the BMW museum....haha.




I love Gluwein!

We made our way to the Neuchwanstein Castle.  It was absolutely beautiful but admittedly full of tourists, which took away from the experience for us. However, this castle from the late 1800's was truly something out of a fairy tale, built by Bavaria's King Ludwig II who died a mysterious death not long after moving into the castle.  The train ride over was really pretty and overall I'd recommend the trip to visitors.
First sighting of the Alps on our way to the castle (on the train)! 
Cute town of Fussen near the castle
Another castle of a Bavarian King
I got so excited when the guy let me feed them our apple cores!! 

Neuchwanstein Castle 
Neuchwanstein Castle
Our last tourist attraction was the Dachau Concentration Camp, one of the first Nazi concentration camps which was used as a model for all future camps.  It was of course a somber experience, but extremely eye-opening.  It's just shocking to see what humans are capable of. I CANNOT imagine living through something like that.

The gate that locked thousands of people out of their worlds forever

Where the prisoners lived

Lots of disturbing images, but the one with the crowd is the day in 1945 where Americans liberated this camp and you can finally see people smiling 
This camp was HUGE
We found Tallwood Festival where lots of locals like to go check out international food (100% organic) and free concerts! Fun but packed! 
Tallwood Festival 
This is what happens when I take pictures of Matt.  Btw, he's enjoying a fresh pizza!
Our last evening here has been a really quiet Sunday, people don't do much and a lot of business are shut down.  We strolled through the English Gardens which are stunning and larger than Central Park, and of course found another adorable Christmas Market.  I can't get over how beautiful all of the neighborhoods are!



Matt overlooking the Isar River by the gorgeous English Gardens

Back in the Marienplatz, I just can't get over this City Hall building!
*We had a delicious meal with Asian and Indian influence at Pavesi Picnic, and another deliciously fresh meal at Preysinggarten Restaurant (see pictures).



Matt is LOVING the traditional cheese Spaetzle which is topped with fried onions.

My fresh salad with grilled veggies and nuts; I'd normally avoid cheese but this sheep's cheese grilled then lightly fried and topped with honey is SINFULLY good.

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Ich liebe dich München (I love you, Munich)

Well, we are in Munich!  And this is how Part 2 of our world travels started:

The night before we were supposed to leave, we received a notification that our flight schedule had been changed. We'd been receiving a lot of these from CheapoAir, who we booked through, but this time, it was a major change. I was super annoyed because it meant we had to leave more than 5 hours earlier than we were planning on and our route even changed.  I call CheapoAir and they flat out told me that they had cancelled our flights....umm...what??  Not even wanting to deal with this company that decided to cancel our flights less than 24 hours before we were supposed to leave, I hung up and called the airlines directly and after running around in circles with them for a while, we were back on track to go.  (BTW, not using CheapoAir again). I have to be honest, given that Matt and I had gotten into an argument a few hours before this phone call, I was not feeling great vibes about the trip at this moment.    But we begin our journey from Sacramento to Dallas to London to Munich nonetheless.  So, remember how my sinuses got all jacked up in Ecuador and I had throat/head issues? OH yeah, apparently I am still not recovered from this because my head felt as if it were going to explode the entire time. While in flight, the right side of my face went sort of numb yet was still throbbing, with such intense pressure that I was literally in tears..... 22 hours later, we arrive in Munich's airport. (Minor detail which amused me is that in their spotless bathrooms, they had toilet seat disinfectant spray instead of covers and the kind of towels that just feed in and get cleaned/reused. I appreciated the eco-friendliness of this!!) Anyway, we go to baggage claim and get Matt's bag, get our carry on that they checked......no sign of my bag. AWESOME.  Again, I get waves of nervousness about the continued bad juju so far. Is God trying to tell us something??! Haha.  After waiting patiently for the little German lady at the airport to pay attention to me, I learned that my bag didn't make it on the flight but that they'd deliver it to our apartment in a few hours after it arrived on the next flight.....okay.  And they did, so after all of that drama, we ended up with all of our stuff in an adorable apartment in Munich.  Phew!!  First thing we did was walk down the street to a market to buy fresh fruit and veggies as well as some eggs to prepare for our breakfasts, perfect!

The next day we felt it would be wise to utilize the free tour recommended to us to get our bearings in the city and learn a bit more about the history and culture.  We went through SANDEMANs New Europe free tour given by a hilarious English speaking local, and we LOVED it!  We will definitely try to do these tours throughout Europe because it was fascinating, hilarious and so informative.  We met up with the group in the city center, Marienplatz, and walked around for 3 hours.  WWII history is of course everywhere, and some renovation of the city is still actually going on given that almost all of Munich was bombed and destroyed during the war. What is pretty cool is that they took very special care to rebuild the city exactly as it was before it's destruction.  When the people during the war accepted that their city was going to be ruined, they took pictures of everything and protected all of the blueprints so that when it came time, they could recreate their city.  Which explains why so many of the buildings are so spotless and brand new looking, but with such beautiful, old day architecture.  And the love for beer here is truly remarkable. It is literally a right to drink it (like, on the job, you legally can have a liter of beer) and beer is woven into almost every history story- drunken soldiers, monks, historically significant brewhouses...etc.  Of course Munich is also the birthplace of the National Socialist Party, or better know as the Nazi party, so it was pretty crazy to walk some of the streets where truly life changing events occurred. Such as, a street that we walked down where Hitler had marched with a troop of Nazis, intending to overthrow the local government.  They were unsuccessful in this, but during the riot, Hitler's bodyguard tripped and fell on top of Hitler, and in the process was shot 5 times.  Not one of the bullets went through his body, so he literally saved Hitler's life, and died in the process. Can you imagine how different our world history would have been if this hadn't happened? Anyway, last tidbit that I found really fascinating was that it is illegal to do the Nazi salute in Germany, and even as a tourist if you are caught doing it, you pay a fine of over 2,500 Euro, are immediately sent on a plane at your own expense back home, and you AND your family are put on a list of people not allowed in Germany or Austria for 10 years!! Anyway, there is so much more to this city than I am going to write about, but in short, Matt and I both agree that it is one of the best cities that we've ever been to in the world.

The Christmas spirit is so alive here, with Christmas markets everywhere, and so many people, not just tourists at all, but locals, attending them.  Adorable traditional vendors selling handmade wooden ornaments and decor, German sweets, yummy hot mulled Gluhwein (wine). Tons of Christmas trees, lights, and LOVE!! Such places truly bring a strong sense of nostalgia, and you can't help but feel pure happiness.  For example, seeing the old school train sets reminded us both of our childhoods, and we found ourselves standing in our layers of clothes, sipping Gluhwein, admiring the twinkling lights and swapping stories of growing up. Priceless!!

**Recommendations so far: lunch from Cotidiano was super fresh and tasty, great service and reasonable prices; beer from an Augustiner Brau- super traditional and popular with locals; Marienplatz Christmas market**

Loving the tree on the balcony!


Marienplatz Christmas market

Couldn't help myself from trying one of these delicious German sweets

Gluwein!
Marienplatz

Traditional German sweets at the market

Handmade ornaments at the market

German beer and mushroom dumplings at Augustiner Brau

New town hall 

Handmade ornaments at the market

Christmas trees!
I just love the spirit here!


Beautiful architecture

New town hall
Super fun to meet up with Lucas, who we met in California at our friends' wedding!